The Skin Hero You're Probably Overlooking: Peptides

Retinol. Vitamin C. Hyaluronic acid. We know the usual suspects. But there’s another skincare ingredient quietly making its way into some of the most talked about formulas right now.

There is always that skincare ingredient. The one that suddenly appears everywhere, earning its place in every second serum, with it's inevitable claim of providing firmer, smoother and younger looking skin. Retinol had its moment. Vitamin C never really left. And then came ceramides, growth factors, PDRN and every possible variation of hyaluronic acids. But lately, peptides have been taking over my mind.

Peptides have been having quite a moment within the skincare world, with formulas ranging from affordable everyday serums, to high-performing creams. I feel as though it's one of those ingredients of which are quietly hardworking - with Vogue recently calling them a "silent powerhouse", highlighting their ability to support collagen and elastin whilst helping with skin ageing and repair. Unlike some intimidating actives, peptides are remarkably easy to slot into a routine, making it generally suitable for all skin types.

Let's Break Down Peptides

In the simplest of terms, peptides are small chains of amino acids. These amino acids help make proteins like collagen, elastin and keratin, all of which are crucial for keeping our skin strong, firm and healthy looking.

Rather than dramatically changing your skin overnight, peptides work more like messengers, helping to signal your skin to do what it already does naturally. Certain peptides can signal to the skin that it needs to support processes involved in the production of collagen, repairing, or maintaining, the skin's structure.

Different peptides have different functions, such as copper peptides, signal peptides, carrier peptides and neuropeptides. Such distinctions matter, as not all peptides do the same thing, and not every peptide product will have the same level of evidence, science, and trials behind it.

So, Why Are Peptides Having a Moment?

Perhaps it's because peptides sit in a rather appealing sweet spot.

They're linked to many things we want to achieve within our routines - smoother looking skin, more hydration, firmness, and a healthier skin barrier - without necessarily bringing irritation of which can come with stronger actives.

A systemic review from this year, as well as meta analysis, looking at 19 randomised controlled trials found that peptide based interventions were associated with improvements in several markers of skin ageing, including hydration, brightness and wrinkle reduction. Researches noted that the evidence was heterongeneous, and that there were few high quality studies examining topical peptides.

(Read the full 2026 systematic review in Frontiers in Medicine here)

So, where does that leave us? Peptides are promising, but they're certainly not a miracle in a bottle. Honestly, I think that's a good thing. We don't need another skincare ingredient making dramatic promises of overnight transformations. Sometimes the ingredients that work quietly and consistently are the ones worth paying attention to.

The Peptide Cheat Sheet

If peptide names like palmitoyl tripeptide-5 leave you slightly confused, you're not alone. The good news? You don't need to memorise them all.

There are a few main types worth knowing:

• Signal peptides - help to signal the skin to support collagen and its overall structure

• Carrier peptides - transport ingredients involved in skin processes

• Neuropeptides - target signalling linked to face muscle movement and are often used in formulas aimed at softening the appearance of expression lines

You’ll also find formulas combining several peptides with familiar ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, glycerin or ceramides. The takeaway? Don’t get too caught up in the names. What matters is what the peptide is designed to do, and whether the formula has the evidence to back it up.

Why Peptides Are Worth Making Room For

The appeal of peptides isn't that they need to replace your favourite actives, it's that they can work alongside them, complimenting your already established routine.

Think of peptides as the supportive player, complementing spf, vitamin c and retinoids rather than competing with them. Enhancing products especially when your skin is feeling stressed, dry, and in need of a little extra support. The focus is on 'skin quality', prioritising hydration, bounce, texture, resilience, and an overall healthy and well-cared-for look.

The TBD Verdict

Peptides probably won't give you an overnight transformation. They won't peel, tingle or promise to turn back the clock on your skin...

... BUT, skincare is rarely about one dramatic ingredient. It's about what you consistently give your skin over time.

The verdict? Worth making room for, especially if you're after healthier-looking, hydrated and resilient skin!